Mussels. Possibly the most Belgian dish there is. Fished straight from Zeeland, 70 kilometers away from Brussels and just over the Netherlands border, they are beloved by both French and Belgians, served in their shells in the pot they were cooked in, with a side dish of chips and presented in a hundred different formulations, from the simple and classic marinière to cream sauce, white wine or even curry. Unlike oysters, they are never eaten raw.
I can't eat them.
I have tried, several times. Nine times out of ten I have had a violent reaction. One involved a spectacular projectile vomit from the top of the grand staircase at Geneva railway station. I also had a bad reaction to clams in Boston, where the clams couldn't be fresher. As a result I can only conclude that I have an intolerance to molluscs and will therefore never eat an oyster.
It's a damn shame, especially as I am now diabetic and mussels are perfect for people who should stay away from sugar and fat.
I am not intolerant to all seafood. I can eat crustaceans. Crab, prawns, crayfish, lobster. Or, as my ex husband used to say, "Yeah you can bloody eat the expensive stuff." (A clue to why he is an ex is in that quote).
To be a food writer in Brussels who cannot eat mussels is like being a deaf music critic. I can appreciate the aroma, the presentation, and the ecstasy on the faces of people eating them, but I can never again savour the flavour, the texture or the fiddling about with specialized cutlery.
C'est la vie.
They are not cheap. 20 to 30 euros a helping of about a kilo of mussels (in their shells, in reality you're probably eating about 250g of food).
I can however give you a list of the places in Brussels where those who do partake might enjoy a steaming hotpot of the treacherous little bearded bivalves. If your dining companion is intolerant to mussels, most restaurants offer crustaceans, fish and even meat dishes.
The mussel season runs from July to April, so really you shouldn't eat them in May and June, but you won't find them in Belgian restaurants in the summer months anyway.
Quai aux Briques alongside Saint Catherine's church is Mecca for mussels lovers. The most popular recipes are moules mariniere, or cooked in white wine, cream or beer. The traditional beverage to accompany them is white wine or a good old Belgian beer.
Le Rugbyman I quai aux Briques 4
Le New Rugbyman II quai aux Briques 12 Specializes in lobster so a good place to invite me, but mussels on the menu
Mussel Mongers quai aux Briques 8 A new addition to Mussels Corner boasts 99 recipes
Chez Léon rue des Bouchers 18 The original, they own the popular French franchise but this is the real deal: labyrinthine corner restaurant, speedy service
Le Pré Salé rue de Flandre 20
La Marée rue de Flandre 99
Le Chou de Bruxelles rue de Florence 26, Ixelles
Aux Vieux Bruxelles rue Saint Boniface 35, Ixelles
In 't Spinnekopke, place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1 Historic Brussels "estaminet" or popular restaurant. Gets very packed.
Le Zinneke place de la Patrie 26, Schaerbeek Off the beaten track, near parc Josaphat
Le Marmiton Galerie de la Reine 38, downtown
