Whit weekend was hot and sunny and Brussels was awash with free entertainment: the Fete de l'Iris, the Etterbeek medieval market, it was all going off. Sadly I was tied up with feathering my new nest, so by the time I made it down to Etterbeek on Whit Monday it was, of course, all gone. Story of my life. Boats I have Missed, vol. 23.
Anyway, being a resilient soul who pulls victory from the jaws of defeat, I espied on my fruitless journey an agreeable Italian restaurant with a terrace that was full of happy diners basking in the sun. I decided to rest my weary Birkenstocks and Do Lunch.
Il Vesuvio is a bustling little family-run trattoria situated a stone's throw from La Chasse. That's a name that always makes me snigger, meaning "the hunt" but also "the flush", as in loo. Tirer la chasse = to pull the chain. Anyway, it's on the main drag of Avenue des Casernes but set back just enough that you don't have to breathe in exhaust fumes with your food. The generous canopy will save you from sunstroke too.
There is a fine selection of pizzas at reasonable prices, but as it was a holiday weekend I felt flush (geddit?) and ordered the grilled sole, which came served with fries and a braised endive. I washed it down with a quarter carafe of the house white and happily observed the good citizens of Etterbeek while trying to figure out where I was on the de Rouck street guide. The fish was very nicely cooked, although the fries were a tad McDonalds.
I have two criteria for judging Italian restaurants. Firstly, they must serve veal as well as pizza. And secondly, they must offer panna cotta on the dessert menu. Il Vesuvio did both. The panna cotta came with a choice of topping: I had mine with coffee liqueur. I can't tell you. It was the most sublime, creamy, heavenly thing I have had in my mouth since Christmas. (Don't ask) I would go back there just for the panna cotta.
The waiters are brisk, flirty and efficient in that way Italians are. My waiter must have been all of 17. And I think you all know how I like a young man. He had a cheeky grin, which widened still further when I told him the panna cotta was exquisite. "Home made, of course?" I added. He looked at me with arms outstretched: "Ma certamente, Signora! La mamma!"
Grilled sole doesn't come cheap, and at 19 euros it accounted for two-thirds of my total bill. But the pizzas are pretty reasonable (10-12 euros) so you could count around 25 euros for a standard pizza-wine-dessert meal.
Unfortunately Il Vesuvio is not open for weekend lunch or Sunday evening. But on a warm weekday or Saturday evening, or even a cold one (the interior looked cosy and welcoming) it is worth a visit. Or if you are lucky enough to have a day off during the week. The pizzas looked and smelled great, and the place was packed with regulars, so probably a good idea to book on a Saturday night.
But do remember to save room for the panna cotta. A little taste of heaven.
Il Vesuvio
Rue Mont-du-Chene 1
(corner of Avenue des Casernes)
1040 Etterbeek
Tel: 02 649 1640
