 (Wrong Indian! - Ed.)
(Wrong Indian! - Ed.)
Indian  food has always been popular in the UK, going back to the days of the  Raj - albeit in an Anglicized form.  Kedgeree and mulligatawny soup are  but two of the many delicious dishes that would be served at a  Memsahib’s table back in the days of Gandhi.
Things  have changed a bit since Indians started serving their food to the  British back in the 1970s.  It is no longer a question of a vindaloo and  a pint of lager after the pub shuts.  North Indian, South Indian, Goan,  Kashmiri, Bengali, Mughal – going out for an Indian is no longer just a  chicken korma, pilao rice and a pile of pappadoms.   The British are  quite au fait with Indian cuisine these days, be it the local tandoori  or a Marks & Spencer ready meal eaten at home, and most of them have  a fairly wide vocabulary of Indian culinary terms:   naan, roti,  tandoori, thali, dal, dansak, biryani, balti, saag, aloo and paneer are  terms that will trip off the tongue of residents of cities almost  anywhere in the UK.
We certainly know our pakora from our pappardelle  and our Panini from our punani these days, for which we can thank Madhur  Jaffrey the TV chef in the 1970s and Patrick Campbell, founder of the  Curry Club.  Even the Hairy Bikers can whip up a saag ghosht, or lamb  and spinach curry, although in a Geordie accent it sounds more like an  expletive.  The chicken tikka masala is now, apparently, the most popular dish in the UK.

If  you are a visitor to the UK and have a penchant for an authentic “Ruby  Murray” as our chirpy cockney mates down in Walford would say, head for  Brick Lane, near   Aldgate East tube.  Or if you want to go more upmarket, Veeraswamy’s on  Regent Street will take you back to the glory days of the Raj.    Birmingham boasts a “balti triangle” where the best balti restaurants  this side of Lahore can be found, and in fact the balti – a way of  cooking in individual dishes -  is reputed to have been invented in that  city.  Birmingham, not Lahore. Whichever  the type of cuisine advertised, in 99 cases out of 100 the chefs and owners will be from Bangla Desh.
Subcontinental  food is becoming popular in Belgium too, if the increasing number of  Indian restaurants in Brussels is anything to go by.  There are now  about 40 in Brussels alone.  Unfortunately French gastrofascism got its  garlicky fingers into Belgian culinary tradition decades ago, and  anything that is not in the Larousse Gastronomique is viewed with  suspicion, if not outright fear.   I met a couple in Paris once who  would not go to Chinese restaurants because there was no bread  on the table!   Indian cuisine is therefore adapted to local palates,  which is not always a bad thing.  The lower the chilli factor, the more  you can taste the subtle blends of spices.   However, some lovers of sensations fortes  – mainly British men – like a degree of pain with their rogan josh.   It’s a macho thing.  You won’t find anything in Brussels to compare  with Bradford, Leicester or Tooting Bec but have a discreet word with  the waiter and most chefs here will turn the heat up a notch or two on  request.
In  the olden days Indian restaurants were called The Star of India or the  Maharajah, and had red flock wallpaper, twangy sitar music and cooking  oil drums stacked up in the corridor blocking the way to the loo.    Nowadays – in the UK at least – they are all painted in neutral  colours with Ikea furniture and venetian blinds and have names like  “Monsoon”, “Billy Patel’s” or “Chutney Mary’s”.   I blame Danny Boyle.   A pair of recently arrived Yanks from the colonies agreed to join me on  one phase of my search for a decent curry.   “We’re going Indian  hunting, cowboys.  Call in the cavalry!”  I quipped. The lady  shuddered.  “We call them Native Murkans now and they’re protected,”    she said, deadpan.   I had a Jeremy Clarkson moment.
We  ordered a selection of samosas – two chicken,  two vegetable – and a  couple of onion bhajis.  The samosas were fine, although not remotely  spicy, more like triangular Cornish pasties, and the onion bhajis were  tasty but about the size of a truffle.  For main course we shared a lamb  danzak, a chicken tikka masala and a vegetable curry.   The lamb danzak  was generally judged to be the most tasty of the three, the taste of  lentils came through unswamped by fiery spices.  The vegetable curry was  mild but flavoursome all the same.  The chicken TM was the colour of a  radioactive carrot.  We asked the waiter what they put in it.  He  insisted just paprika and general masala spices.  Otis swore he could  detect something like ketchup in the sauce.  I couldn’t bring myself to  tell him the possibly apocryphal legend that the CTM was invented by a  chef at the Shish Mahal restaurant in Glasgow who whipped up an  improvised sauce using a tin of Heinz tomato soup.   With one garlic  nan, one plain nan, and two portions of basmati rice, the whole lot came  to around 26 euros a head.   The waiters are smiling and nice but don’t  expect the sort of expertise or banter you’d get in Sauchiehall Street.

Personally  I find wine a bit wasted with curry, as it all tastes the same with the  strong spices, and Indians themselves recommend drinking either beer or  lassi (fermented milk) with their food.   Indian beers such as Cobra  and Kingfisher are brewed under licence in the UK, and have been  designed especially for drinking with curry, having a lower gas content.   If you follow me.  
I ventured to the Koh-i-Noor  on Avenue de la Chasse with another colonial, this one from the land of  the long white cloud#.  This small, unprepossessing establishment must  have taken over the premises of a Swiss fondue chalet if the décor is  anything to go by.  Wood panelled walls made me feel I was inside a  cuckoo clock.   One little lady in a sari runs  this place single handedly, she does all the cooking and serving, and goes as fast as she can, but we did wonder if the kitchen was in the same street.  The place  is not exactly heaving on a Friday night – in fact there were just the  two of us.  This would seem to be more due to lack of appreciation of  Indian cuisine from the locals, or possibly the off-centre location,  than on the quality of the food which, when it did arrive, was extremely  good.  We munched on a pappadom and worked our way through a bottle of  Beaujolais while we waited for our large plate of mixed entrees, which  comprised 2 samosas (one meat one veg), an onion bhaji, pieces of  chicken tandoori, chicken tikka, lamb tikka, shik kebab and a little  side dish of mint yogurt.  By the time we’d worked our way through  these, the main courses were ready:  a chicken tikka masala that was  reddish but didn’t glow in the dark, a lamb badam pasanda, a vegetable  biryani to share and a side order of vegetables.  All the food was  freshly cooked, including the garlic naan which was the best I have  tasted anywhere.  A second bottle of Beaujolais at 17 euros was required  due to the slow service, which whacked the bill up a bit to just over  40 euros a head, but I cannot fault the food which was delicious.

The third in my trio of Indians is Annapurna  on Rue de Laeken which advertises Indian, Bengali, Tibetan and Nepalese  dishes, and is named after one of the highest peaks of the Himalayas.  I popped in for a quick standard menu (samosas - chicken tikka  masala - basmati rice)  with a French friend.  The waiters are sweet  and speak good English, although they can barely speak French.  It was  quite busy, and they obviously weren’t used to dealing with a full  house.  We  tried to channel the patience of Sir Edmund Hillary  and Sherpa Tensing  on the first conquest of Everest while waiting for  the food, but we  had the impression that base camp was quite a long way down.  It finally  dawned on them that they’d forgotten us.  Some panicking in the kitchen,  and we finally got our meal - which was delicious.  I can’t fault the  food, but avoid it on a weekend, they haven’t quite come to terms with  their own success, yet.
Indian  restaurants here are somewhat timid in their cooking, and in none of  these three did the waft of curry spices hit you as soon as you walked  in.  If you are a novice where Indian food is concerned, Brussels is  probably a good place to start.  If you are a Brit desperate for a  really good curry, London is only two hours away on Eurostar.

Spicy Grill
Rue Stevin 102
1040 Etterbeek
Tel: 02  512 25 05
http://www.spicygrill.be
Koh-i-Noor
Avenue de la Chasse 123
1040 Etterbeek
Tel:  02 736 50 22
http://restaurantkohinoor.be
Annapurna
Rue de Laeken 26
1000 Bruxelles
Tel: 02 219 3933
http://web.resto.com/annapurna/
Veeraswamy’s 
Swallow Street 
(off Regent Street)
London W1
Tel : +44 20 7734 1401
http://www.veeraswamy.com/